Luang Prabang & Nong Khiaw, Laos

Landlocked between Thailand, Vietnam, Myanmar, China, and Cambodia — Laos is relatively unknown to the average person. However, I think it may be the most magical and rustic country in all of SE Asia. I intended my visit to be an opportunity to slow down and just … be … but naturally I had a difficult time with that.

Getting into Laos from Thailand via the land border was complicated. Having departed from Chiang Mai, I chose to take the infamous two-day “slow boat” along the Mekong River to the Laotian city of Luang Prabang. This was a wild and ridiculous start to an otherwise calm and relaxing trip. Used primarily by young backpackers, the slow boats allow for a … well … slow arrival over the course of two days. The boats are long and narrow, with decently comfortable chairs ripped out from vehicles.

The boat was packed full, and many spent the days with the national beer, Beerlao in hand. I enjoyed listening to music, chatting with my seat mate, and watching the endless jungle views — which became only more beautiful the further we got from Thailand. On the first night the boat makes a stop in a small village, where locals wait with signs advertising their guesthouses. It’s basically a free for all, with everyone attempting to barter their way into the best deal.

On the second day we were split between two smaller boats. Mine had a group of older locals who sat on mats near the front. They began drinking Beerlao at a ripe 9 AM. The rest of us watched in wonder as they downed beer after beer, turning nearby objects into drums, and singing songs for hours as we graced the Mekong. (They were dropped off at a small village around noon — meanwhile small children, dogs, and even a cow came down the hill from the village to greet them).

After two days we arrived in the former royal capital city of Luang Prabang. I had a feeling that I was going to love this city, and after spending six nights here I can say it lived up to its good reputation. Of everywhere I’ve been, Luang Prabang was the most tranquil city — with more of a small town feeling. It has French bakeries, colonial era architecture, palm trees, the Mekong flowing alongside, a hilltop temple in the center of town, and an extensive night market. Luang Prabang is easily a place one can chill out for an entire week.

Like everywhere else I’ve been in SE Asia the nature attractions weren’t easily accessible, at least not without a motorbike or tuk tuk. And of course the one thing I wanted to see, the Kuang Si Waterfalls was a 4.5 hour roundtrip bicycle ride through mostly hilly roads. I rented a bicycle on my second day in town and prepared for a long day out to the falls.

The ride had periods of long down hill stretches, and other up hill sections where I had to walk. I was surely the only person visiting the falls by bicycle, while tour vans and motorbikes passed me by. I think there is something about the slower pace of riding a bicycle that can make the trip itself more worthwhile and enjoyable.

Laos is known for it’s waterfalls, and the Kuang Si Falls might be the best example of them. The impossibly turquoise water pools over numerous mini-falls. After the long ride I was happy to take a swim, and the pools are deep enough to jump into from the falls above. A trail near the main falls takes you up to the top, where there are few tourists and a more remote vibe.

During the middle of my stay in Luang Prabang I took a local minivan ride up to the small village of Nong Khiaw to spend a couple days. This may be one of the most incredibly well situated villages I’ve been to, as it sits along a river and is surrounded by steep mountains with close proximity to numerous jaw-dropping hikes.

The village itself was very bare, though there is an increasing number of guesthouses available. There seemed to be more children than adults in Nong Khiaw — they always seemed to be coming from or going to school, many riding bicycles or even motorbikes along the gravel roads. Children throughout SE Asia are typically excited to see western travelers and will often say hello both in English and/or their native language.

Coming back to Luang Prabang I looked forward to laying low after three straight days of intense biking/hiking. My hostel, Downtown Backpackers 2 was one of the more comfortable stays I’ve had in SE Asia, owing to the good mattresses and free breakfast (it’s the little things that count with budget travel!)

As for the cafe scene I was obsessed with the pastries at Le Banneton French Bakery. I would go there every morning to write my journals. I was struck by the cultural juxtaposition of sitting at a French Bakery with a large temple directly across the street and Buddhist monks in saffron robes walking here and there.

For meals in Luang Prabang I bounced back and forth between restaurants on opposing sides of a nearby road, a little ways away from the main tourist area. I still find it bizarre how much prices can differentiate even in one city for very similar items, so I keep striving to find the cheapest food (and sometimes it’s at actual restaurants and not at street food stalls!)

Up Next: “Finding Gratitude & Relaxation in Laos“