Vietnam — IV. Ninh Bình

Coming to the region of Ninh Bình after two days spent with a bunch of binge-drinking 20 year olds in Ha Long Bay felt like a relief. Other than the constant feeling that I’m defying American societal norms, the most difficult thing about backpacking around the world in my late 20’s has been separating myself from the dramas that seem to surround many of the younger backpackers I meet: “so and so lost all his money and his phone at the bar” — “a German guy got beaten up by a Kiwi at Tom’s Bar in Hanoi” — “this person got caught with such and such substance in Thailand” — etc etc. I’ve had my own messy moments in travel, and lost items due to negligence (i.e passport 2017) — but it feels good to be older now and still traveling. At the moment I’m all about finding good food, cute cafes, interesting people, picturesque hikes, and a general sense of wellness while on the road.

Except for in Hanoi and Ha Long Bay all of my stays in Vietnam have been at family run home-stays — none of which have exceeded $5/night. I’m always surprised looking at my bank account to see how little money I’ve spent so far in SE Asia — I estimate between $11 – $20/day including lodging, 2 or 3 meals, and an activity.

The internet pointed me towards staying in the village of Tam Coc, located a short ride from the city of Ninh Bình. Here I stayed in the Riverside Homestay, which for $4/night included a free breakfast. I was also able to use a bicycle free of charge. Those brave enough to explore via motorbike could also rent through the homestay. The place did not have a pool, which would have been very nice in the sweltering heat.

Ninh Bình is quite spread out. As someone who best enjoys walkable places, I was a bit distressed that a bicycle or motorbike were needed to go almost anywhere. With that said, I wish I would have explored home-stays further out of town to better experience the rustic charm of Ninh Bình. Similar to the Ban Gioc Waterfall area in Cao Bang Province, Ninh Bình is full of similarly dramatic limestone karsts. During my stay I biked past so many Instagram-worthy home-stays tucked amongst the karsts with relaxing pools and striking views. The amazing thing is that $5 and $10 can be difference between basic and incredible accommodation in Vietnam.

My stay coincided with the Vietnamese Independence Day holiday, so it was extremely busy with local tourists. And being just 2.5 hours south of Hanoi the tourist spots quickly filled up with day-trippers from the capital. The constant sight of large tour buses was definitely a detractor from the rural vibe, and were an annoyance while biking.

Ninh Bình was the first stop in Vietnam that I took at a slow pace. I originally planned to stay three nights, but extended into a fourth due to a lack of availability on buses going south during the holiday. With the extra time I took the days leisurely, doing fewer activities and taking more smoothie breaks at quaint roadside cafes. And when smoothies typically cost $1.2 how could you not indulge?

I met another American solo-traveler named Brittany on the bus from Hanoi, and though we were at different home-stays we got together each day to sight see or explore by bicycle. The Mua Cave hike and nearby lily fields were fun places to photograph the area on our second evening. (Note: the cave here is barely a cave — most people come instead for the lookout points above the cave). Also, plan to do the hike just before sunset for the best lighting and less intense heat.

There are two different boat tours that you can take in the area — one departing from Tam Coc, and the other from the Trang An boat station. I opted for the Trang An tour. Boats require four people before they depart for the 2.5 — 3 hour trips. For $8 this was worth the money, as you are taken through caves and into river valleys that aren’t otherwise accessible. I would have done this tour in the late afternoon, but since I was coordinating a time with two other travelers from Brittany’s homestay I wound up doing it during the middle of the day (many people used umbrellas during the tour to hide from the sun).

I developed somewhat of a love/dislike relationship with Ninh Bình. I could have skipped it all together, as a lot of the scenery felt like a repeat of the epic limestone karsts in Cao Bang. On the other hand there were endless scenic back streets around Ninh Bình to escape the crowds and immerse yourself in the countryside. I stumbled upon multiple less-frequented temples during my rides.

Near the end of my stay Brittany and I were out riding our bicycles when I realized mine had a flat tire. We had just eaten lunch at a restaurant nearby, and I thought they would be the best place to go and ask for help. There one of the owners’ children called a local repairman who arrived a short time later to fix the tire. After a quick inspection he took a stone and scratched “80” into the pavement, meaning 80,000 Vietnamese Dong, or $3.4 — to have it fixed. It was surprisingly mesmerizing to watch the bicycle undergo surgery right before our eyes!

By the end of my time in Ninh Bình I was ready to move on from the almost imaginarily-beautiful landscapes of northern Vietnam. There’s part of me that feels I am limiting myself on certain activities without renting a motorbike, but I rest easy knowing there isn’t a risk of me getting injured while driving one. It’s your choice if you want to use one, and it’s definitely the “cool” thing to do — but know that your insurance will not cover you in an accident if you do not possess a motorcycle license from your home country (or if you’re not wearing a helmet). Anyway, now onto central Vietnam!

Up Next: Vietnam V. “Da Nang & Hoi An“