Where were you when the covid pandemic began? Perhaps you were en route to a job when you got word of immediate cancellation – or maybe your university announced plans to move everyone off campus for remote learning. I happened to be working on a cruise ship – and just prior to the cancellation of our itinerary I spent a few short hours in the city of Cairns.
Cairns was the only port where rain prevented us from doing anything adventurous with our brief hours on land. None of us had a clue that these were our last “normal” hours before our lives would become engulfed in pandemic-related woes. The highlight of the day was our stop at the Wildlife Dome – where we paid to get our photo taken whilst holding a Koala (very touristy…)
Two years and many wild events later – and I am back in Cairns. At first I was nostalgic – visiting the still-closed cruise terminal and looking for things elsewhere in town that I might remember from before. As the month went on I came to really appreciate my down time and relax after three months working in Sydney.
To start things off I had NO clue on my first visit that Cairns is a major backpacker hub. It seemed as if all of Australia had flocked here for the winter, like snowbirds in Florida. The hostel that I volunteered at – Mad Monkey Backpackers Central – was almost always fully booked. Many hostels in Cairns resembled low-key resorts with swimming pools, large bars, and in the case of the iconic Gilligan’s hostel: a legit dance club.
Cairns is a small city that feels quite large. The only misfortune is the rather ugly coastline at low tide – exposing the rocks and mud below. The Esplanade boardwalk makes up for what it lacks aesthetically, with the Esplanade Lagoon being the best afternoon hangout in town. It features a large pool and a fake beach – which is great because who wants to swim with the saltwater crocodiles? Nearby is the popular Rusty’s Market, open from Friday-Sunday offering fresh produce at bargain rates with pop-up food stalls. It was here that I tried red dragon fruit for the first time!
Early on I decided not to work in Cairns – and instead to stay for a short holiday. As for activities, I realized that the greater Cairns area is quite difficult to get around. I utilized the public buses and a bicycle to reach places of interest – including the Walsh’s Pyramid hike, and the towns of Palm Cove/Kuranda. Otherwise a fear of mine had seemed to come true – that the best nature spots would only accessible by car or group tour. And there’s a lot to see in the Cairns area – one of the biggest attractions being the Great Barrier Reef.
After a couple weeks I decided to abandon my plans to find someone to carpool with towards the west coast. Instead I decided to book a flight directly there. I figured driving to WA would require more effort and money than I was willing to spend. So I booked a flight to Perth for July 2nd – giving me a solid month in Cairns.
Once the initial honeymoon phase had worn out I began to feel a bit stuck in Cairns. Honestly, I think I just have trouble relaxing. The weather also worsened throughout my stay, and this made me reluctant to book tours in the area (most of which are fairly expensive).
More adventurous moments include a day where I biked from Cairns to Palm Cove – stopping at numerous spots including Earl Hill and Trinity Bay. On another day a friend joined for a hike from Smithfield to Kuranda. After arriving in Kuranda around 3:00 PM we learned that we had missed the last bus of the day back to Cairns. We attempted to hitch-hike but had no luck. This left us with two options: an expensive taxi or a 2.5 hour walk along a dangerous and winding highway back to Smithfield. Being frugal backpackers you can guess which one we picked – and let’s just say it’s a miracle we are still alive! Moral of the story: take the bus to Kuranda in the morning and hike back.
Near the end of my stay I took a two-day tour through the Uncle Brians tour company. This included a number of local waterfalls and nature areas including the Daintree Rainforest (the oldest rainforest in the world!) Some heavy rains made this tour a tad uncomfortable, but sitting along the rocks underneath Milla Milla Falls was an invigorating and memorable experience (among others).
Over the past month I realized that Cairns really wasn’t a great place for those who thrive on public transport and free activities. However, I think Cairns is ideal for two types of people: 1.) Young backpackers looking to party. And 2.) People with a car and/or a good chunk of cash they are willing to spend on tours. Had I done more tours I would have easily blown through the $3,000 I saved from Sydney. Maybe it’s that my recent travels have been to countries where the dollar is strong, but I was unwilling to spend money on activities that would cost far less elsewhere.
To finish things up I’d like to give a shout out to the staff members at Mad Monkey Central hostel for being wonderful during my stay. Personally I don’t think volunteering for accommodation is worth it unless you are in financial need, but here I liked being housed in a separate staff “apartment” that was a cross between a hostel dorm and a flat. The separation from the louder and more chaotic areas of the hostel was a welcome respite for an aging backpacker like myself (lol). I enjoyed the conversations as we shared the one working stove burner in the kitchenette – and I found the info I learned about Oz and beyond to be quite insightful.
Up Next: WHV Australia Part VII. “The Southwest“
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